Mats don't brush out. They have to be cut through, and that's what one side of this is for: widely spaced steel blades you work into the edge of the mat to split it into sections small enough to comb.
Flip it over and the finer side takes out the loose undercoat that caused the matting in the first place. Having both in one tool means you aren't putting a brush down mid-session and losing the dog.
A button on the back releases the collected hair, so you clear the head in one press instead of pulling it out by hand.
The head is about 9.5 x 17.5cm — enough to cover ground on a long-coated dog without being unwieldy on a small one. The grip is rubberised, which you notice when you're working through a stubborn mat and a smooth handle would turn in your hand.
Work slowly on mats sitting close to the skin, and stop if the dog tenses.
A mat (a clump of fur felted tight against itself) does not just sit on the coat. It tightens against the skin as the dog moves and pulls with every step, and it forms first in the places brushing usually skips: behind the ears, in the armpits, under the collar and harness.
How this helps
The bladed side splits a mat into sections small enough to comb out; the fine side lifts the loose undercoat (the soft layer sitting beneath the outer coat) that formed it in the first place. Working those hidden areas weekly supports a coat that never reaches the matted stage.
Choosing a selection results in a full page refresh.
